How do you tell diamond shapes apart, and which one is right for your ring? Below are the main shapes, how each one looks on the hand, and what to watch for when you buy. Not sure yet? That's what the consultation is for: we'll show you real stones side by side and help you choose.
The round is by far the most popular shape for engagement rings, and the best at returning light: a well-cut round shows more brilliance than any other shape. Cutting a round loses more of the rough diamond, so rounds usually cost more per carat than other shapes.
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A well-cut oval faces up large: put a 1 carat oval next to a 1 carat round and most people say the oval looks bigger. Ovals are hard to cut well, which keeps fine ones scarce and in demand. Watch for the "bowtie," a dark band across the middle of a poorly cut stone.
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The pear combines a round and a marquise. Most people wear it with the point toward the fingertip, which lengthens the hand and finger. Like ovals and marquises, a badly cut pear can show a bowtie: dark, less reflective facets that are a cutting problem, not an inclusion.
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Cushions have a classic, old-Hollywood look and come in two kinds. The cushion brilliant uses fewer, larger facets for an elegant, old-world sparkle; it is rarer and can cost about 15% more. Many cushion-modified brilliants have so many facets they look busy, like crushed ice.
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The princess is one of the most popular shapes for engagement rings. It is the most efficient shape to cut, losing the least of the rough diamond, which keeps its price below a round's. Its sharp corners can chip, so a setting that protects them is a smart choice.
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The marquise is a long, football-like shape that began in the court of King Louis XIV, where it was called the navette, or "little boat." It has one of the largest surface areas of any shape, so it is a great way to maximize how big a diamond looks.
Design with this shapePhotos only go so far. In a consultation we show you real diamonds in the shapes you're considering, side by side, within your budget, in person in Downtown LA or by video call.
The emerald is a step cut with long, glassy facets that create a hall-of-mirrors effect. Its open facets make inclusions and body color easier to see than in other shapes, so clarity and color matter more. If you love a classic, old-world look, this is your shape.
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The asscher is the square version of the emerald cut, and its technical name is the "square emerald cut." It shares the emerald's step-cut facets and its need for good clarity and color.
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The radiant is a brilliant-cut square or rectangle with its corners polished off, so it avoids the princess's chipping risk. Its many facets give it plenty of sparkle and a contemporary look that makes a striking center stone, though some can show the crushed-ice look of a modified cushion.
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The heart is a brilliant cut and the most direct symbol of love there is. It is popular as a solitaire ring or a pendant, and like every fancy shape it looks its best when it is cut well and set with care.
Design with this shapeShape is the diamond's outline. Cut is how well it is faceted and proportioned to return light, and it matters for every shape; learn more on our diamond cut page.
| Shape | Known for | Watch for |
|---|---|---|
| Round | Most sparkle | Highest price per carat |
| Oval | Looks larger | Bowtie |
| Pear | Lengthens the finger | Bowtie; protect the point |
| Cushion | Vintage look | Crushed-ice look (modified) |
| Princess | Square, good value | Chipped corners |
| Marquise | Largest-looking | Bowtie; protect the points |
| Emerald | Hall of mirrors | Shows inclusions and color |
| Asscher | Square step cut | Shows inclusions and color |
| Radiant | Sparkle in a square | Crushed-ice look |
| Heart | Romance | Needs an excellent cut |
Every Concierge Diamonds piece starts with a free, no-pressure consultation. The form takes about a minute, and we'll be in touch within two business days. Questions first? Read Dan Moran's answers on diamond shapes or call (213) 261-4330.